ARE FASHION BRANDS RETURNING TO MILAN 2021 DESIGN WEEK?
This year design week in milan was not like the others. following the cancellation of the 2020 edition and the postponement of the 2021 event, we instead gathered in the city after the summer – from September 5 to 10 – when the sun was still hot enough to go away. complain. salone del mobile was a “supersalone” and, alongside the usual designer foray, there were also a number of fashion brands that stole the show.
As we walked our 20th mile of the day in typical design week style, we couldn’t help but wonder if fashion brands were taking control of milan design week 2021?
Hermès presented its new home collections at the pelota jai alai, an indoor sports center in the heart of brera. transformed into a “village” of monolithic rooms, the space immerses visitors in the french brandthe universe and the latest creations of. the five architectural volumes were each wrapped in unique and colorful graphic patterns, while they all rested on a bed of terracotta-colored sand.
oscillating between tradition and innovation in an installation designed by charlotte macaux perelman, the collections presented bear witness to a unique know-how, a fundamental element of the creative process, developed by the work of leather, textiles, metals and stone. the new collections embrace the simplicity of an elegance that leaves room for refinement and comfort.
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EXHIBITION OF THE DIOR MEDALLION CHAIR
the house of dior has invited seventeen artists to reinterpret one of its emblematic emblems, the medallion chair. the chair, which is a symbol of the Louis XVI style, was first adopted by dior himself in 1947 who used it to seat guests on his fashion shows. in his memories he described it as ‘sober, simple, and above all classic and Parisian.’
sam baron, nacho carbonell, pierre charpin, dimorestudio, khaled el mays, martino gamper, constance guisset, india mahdavi, nendo, joy de rohan chabot, linde freya tangelder, atang tshikare, seungjin yang, ma yansong, jinitchyejin yeoka and pierre yovanovan offered their artistic and cultural visions and sensibilities and reimagined this object of desire with boundless creativity.
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“Metamorphosis is the most revolutionary and profound accomplishment in the life of a person, of a society or of the world in general, and art and design are its main interpreters.” with that in mind, Bulgarian asked four international artists to represent their own metamorphosis ideas at the galleria d’arte moderna (GAM). azuma makoto, daan roosegaarde, Ann Veronica Janssens and Vincent Van Duysen offered their interpretations of metamorphosis through the poetics of their specific languages, resulting in a series of unique and diverse installations in situ.
the first installation that visitors encountered upon entering the space was “the garden of eden” by azuma makoto. for the Japanese floral artist, “metamorphosis” is the word that sums up and expresses the notion of “life” in all its precarious fragility. the installation featured a huge brass tree growing real fruit and flowers. being living creatures, flowers change shape, color and fragrance over time. the aim is to convey to visitors a metamorphic sense of ‘time’ through the contrast between artificial materials and the vitality of fruits and flowers.
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gucci opened a pop-up boutique via manzoni 19 where he presented a cabinet of curiosities filled with fantasy. double gucci cartoleria, the space has been enriched with unexpected surprises, suspended in an atmosphere of wonder. flying notebooks, playing chess games, haunted objects and endless libraries, the space immersed visitors in the magical world of gucci’s creative director, alessandro michele.
inspired by traditional italian stationery and showcasing gucci’s new lifestyle collection of games, notebooks and leisure accessories, the space was defined by the motifs of the house. “When I was a child, going to the stationery and finding pencils, pens, notebooks, games, it was making a dream fit into my daily routine” said Michele. “They were beautiful, well-made objects that spoke of craftsmanship and which, although part of my daily life, were able to give off a magical, mysterious and wonderful aura.”
RICK OWENS – DIALOGUE WITH EMERGING ITALIAN DESIGNERS
Over the years, Rick Owens has developed a number of characteristic materials, shapes and visual archetypes and has influenced an entire generation of sculptural artists and designers. his brutalist furniture varies in finishes and textures, they can be black, gold or nitrate, but they all combine a stark modernist look with a contemporary minimalist line.
curated by the philia gallery, and located in the spazio CB32, the exhibition focused on the design works of Rick Owens questioned aesthetically by contemporary italian sculptural artists. the unique event forged a dialogue between a curated selection of emerging Italian designers and the impactful design artwork of Rick Owens.
‘my furniture is my sewing, ‘ Rick Owens said. “I use rare materials and artisans with specialized skills to create unique and one-of-a-kind items. “
TOM DIXON FOR VALEXTRA
Tom dixon is partnering with valextra, the iconic Italian luxury leather goods brand. titled ‘black light’, the exhibition draws its inspiration from the archives of milanese masters gio ponti, ettore sottsass and achille castiglioni. a striking exhibition of 10 monumental LED light shapes by tom dixon and the austrian lighting specialists prolicht, alongside the new capsule collection of chiaroscuro handbags from valextra in via manzoni, 3.
“These sculptures are the result of two years of intense research with our Austrian professional lighting partner to rethink track lighting”, said tom dixon. ‘we decided to show the potential of this new system by making these 10 light sculptures which are a really unusual way to use the latest hot light emitting diodes. on the larger sculpture there are up to 10,000 individual dots, which makes these objects the very embodiment of brightness, but the quality of the light is still surprisingly soft and flattering and fills a space with a ethereal glow unlike any lamp we’ve seen before. ‘
OFF WHITE X GINORI 1735
off-white c / o virgil abloh ™ presents new limited home collaboration with ginori 1735, the first drop in a long partnership slated for 2022. ginori 1735 has been a global benchmark in the luxury and lifestyle industry for nearly centuries encompassing an expression of Italian excellence in pure porcelain and design of the highest quality. associated with great figures of fashion, art, design, architecture, cinema and furniture, in this collaboration, the two brands have unveiled a surprising combination of tradition and modern innovation, creating a collection that combines high-end design elements with the off-white ™ codes of youth culture and contemporary conversation.
5TH STONE ISLAND PROTOTYPE RESEARCH SERIES
in its showroom in via savona 54, stone island presented the series 5 research prototype featuring indigenous limited editions, numbered project clothes, made with fabrics and / or treatments resulting from research and experimentation, series 5, which is not yet at an industrial scale stage, applies copper nanotechnology on raso. the result is a trench coat made in the iconic Stone Island cotton raso bound on the outside with a lightweight non-woven fabric onto which a layer of nanoscale copper has been deposited by the pvd (physical vapor deposition) technique.
Stone island’s objective for this project is to study the natural oxidation characteristics of copper in the atmospheric environment, borrowing this technique from industrial uses. the speed and intensity of the process will depend on the environmental conditions to which the garment will be exposed, mainly the degree of humidity and the percentage of carbon dioxide.
ISSEY MIYAKE presented a project in which he collaborated with designers, artists and creatives to celebrate creativity, inspiring a sense of universal joy and wonder to people of all cultures. called ‘in the making’, the project was presented in the Milanese store, where it confronted the creatives with the creation of clothes that reflect the lifestyle of the wearer, developing original materials and revisiting the creative process itself step by step.
‘in the making’ also featured the latest proposals from IM MEN and A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE with an original display, alongside the other ISSEY MIYAKE lines which were also featured in the same concept.
VERSACE HOUSE COLLECTION
versace home presented a new collection of furniture and home accessories via durini. the project, which saw a collaboration between donatella versace and ludovica and roberto palomba, took the stylistic codes of the fashion brand and infused them into pieces that combine silk, metals, marble, solid jewelry tones and patterns and patterns from versace.
“I am a very curious person and always take every opportunity to learn something new” said donatella versace. “When I started to think with ludovica and poberto, I was captivated by their incredible knowledge of design and the ideas they already had for the house of versace.”
Missoni’s unique colorful style and iconic designs were part of the brand’s home collection showcased during milan design week at the brand’s store on via sant’andrea and two other locations around town. a new range of chairs carved from solid and curved wood were presented, offering five different hues like plum, turquoise and yellow. a new armchair inspired by the 1960s joined the presentation, covered in missoni’s famous zigzag patterns.